Holy Week in Salzburg and on to Prague

I left Rome early on Monday morning - a 5:15 taxi call.  I had packed most everything but it still felt pretty hectic to get everything finalized and on my way.  I felt rather weighed down by my luggage even though I had sent the majority home.  I sent a little more home from Litomysl which I visited just before Prague.  I am sitting at the Prague airport hotel (a Courtyard by Marriot, so feeling rather like home) and thought I would send a final post before I head out onto the Camino. 

After an uneventful train ride I arrived in Salzburg and took a taxi to my hotel.  Here are some of the sights along the way.  Beautiful.

It was wonderfully located just up from the river in an area with lots of restaurants, sights to see and stores that made my stay more enjoyable (like the supermarket just up the street that allowed me to purchase breakfast items so I didn't have to pay almost $20 per day for breakfast (although I did do that a couple of times).  I was also able to get a rain poncho and some blister treatment.  As guys were emptying their rooms we could put things in a box for donation.  Someone had put some walking poles in the box which I adopted for my Camino trip.  Friends have told me they are helpful.

My main reason for being in Salzburg was to go to the Easter Festival which is a two week series of concerts and events.  Each concert is presented twice over the course of the two weeks and I had split my series so was there for a whole week.  The concerts were wonderful.  I got to hear some great music, some fantastic musicians and got to see my 6th Wagner opera (Die Meistersinger, his "comedy").  I did feel a bit underdressed as most men had suits and ties or even tuxedos.  I had a jacket but no tie.  On the other hand the temp in the hall was quite warm so for the last two I took off my jacket once I got to my seat. 

The Great Festival Hall of Salzburg

Regula Muhlmann curtain call after the Mahler 4th Symphony

Curtain call at the end of Meistersinger (Klaus Florian Vogt at the front)

For the Triduum I spent most of the liturgies at the Cathedral.  Each were beautifully done.  They followed the tradition of not using organ or instruments after the Gloria on Holy Thursday which was quite interesting.  The choir and other musicians were very skilled so everything was beautifully  done. I was able to get a seat near the front for all of the ceremonies which was nice.  However, there were no padded kneelers anywhere.  They are hard.  In fact, my knees took a beating. 

On Friday I decided to go to St. Sebastian church which was just up the street.  Turned out to be in the old Tridentine rite.  It was well done and they had materials but I was reminded why I appreciate the reformed rite.  That evening I went back to the Cathedral which I thought would be a devotional service but it turned out to be the liturgy of Good Friday.  I really didn't mind being there a second time.

On Saturday I went for the Vigil.  No baptisms but a great celebration.  They lit the fire outside and brought it into the church which was almost full.  The light spreading through the church was powerful.  Knowing what was going on really helped since I don't speak German.  As we left the church the bells were ringing.  Very cool.

Went back on Sunday morning.  Packed church.  Special music included the Lord Nelson Mass by Haydn.  At the end the bells were ringing again.  For some reason I can't get my videos to load.  You can check them out on my Facebook page.

In addition to the music and liturgy I did some sightseeing.  I took the obligatory pictures at some of the Sound of Music sites at the Mirabell Gardens. 

I checked out the house where Mozart was born and where his family later lived.  Interesting.  I also went up to the fortress and the St. Peter Abbey. 

Mozart Square and statue

View from the fortress

Interior of the Cathedral 

Mozart family grave - Wolfgang was buried in Vienna

Cafe in Mirabell Gardens

Do Re Mi gate at the gardens

From the fortress

Horse washing fountain

Franciscan Church in Salzburg

I really enjoyed my time in Salzburg and kind of hated to see it come to an end.

From there I travelled by train to Litomysl in the Czech Republic.  One of my parishes is in Litomysl in Minnesota.  I was given a contact from some parishioners who have traveled to Litomysl and Josef turned out to be a great tour guide and arranger.  It turns out that this is not quite tourist season so things are open on a limited basis.  Josef contacted the city government and the vice-mayor and his staff got things opened for me so I could see the main sights and have a private tour of each.  Amazing generosity.

I stayed at the rectory of the Church of the Raising of the Cross.  Founded and built in the 14th century it is amazing.

Composer Bedrich Smetana was born in Litomysl

Ancient fresco in Church of Raising of the Cross

17th century cabinet in sacristy

Pictures of interior of the church

We took a walking tour of the city the next day.  Went to the Piarist Church of the Discovery of the Holy Cross, Smetana's birth house and the chateau.  In each they had arranged to have someone to explain something of the place.  I actually got a tour of both Smetana's house and the Chateau.

Piarist Church of the Discovery of the Cross

American school bus turned into a bistro.

Smetana birth house

Baroque theater in the Chateau.

Courtyard decoration of the Chateau

Exterior wall.  Dark layer is plastered with the lighter layer and then carved out.  No two alike.

From Litomysl I headed to Prague for a day and a half.  Not really enough time but what I could spare.  Prague is beautiful but crowded.  Got a bit oppressive with so many people.  But I did get to see the main sites.  Took a walking tour of the Old Town and Jewish Neighborhood.  Great guide with lots of good information.  Was going to do one of the Castle but ended up just walking around on my own so I could manage my time a bit better.  Got into the four main sites:  Royal Palace, St. Vitus Cathedral, Golden Lane and St. George's Church.  Saw the tombs of St. John Nepomuk and St. Wenceslaus in the Cathedral.  I ended the day with a quick visit to the Infant of Prague church and then walked home across the Charles Bridge.

Powder Tour - original entry into Prague

Church of St. James

Festival in town square

Estates Theater where Mozart premiered Don Giovanni

Amazing Astrological Clock

Mosaic on side of St. Vitus Cathedral 

Cathedral Interior

St. John Nepomuk Grave

St. Wenceslaus Grave

Infant of Prague

Charles Bridge

Tomorrow I head to Madrid where I will spend the night with my cousin who happens to be in town.  On Sunday I will take the train to Sarria from where I being the Camino.  Please keep me in your prayers in the coming week.  I am excited but a bit nervous too.  Should be a great way to end my sabbatical.

I won't be posting on the blog while on the Camino but you can check my Facebook feed.