Monastic Christian Egypt
On Monday we boarded the bus early and made our way to Wadi El-Natrun which is on the Eastern edge of the Libya desert. "Natrun" refers to the salt lakes of the area where Natron is harvested.
We saw two Coptic monasteries, both very interesting.
The first was the monastery of Anba Bishoy who is buried in the monastery. It was founded in the 4th century. It has five churches within it. We had a monk as a tour guide and he was quite interesting. He talked about the life of the monks and the history of the monastery. We saw several of the churches.
The head of the Coptic church is called a "pope." Several popes came from this monastery. Pope Shenouda III is buried in the monastery. This is inside the tomb church. I thought it gave a good example of contemporary Coptic iconography.
The second monastery we went to was St. Macarius. This is a major pilgrimage spot for Egyptian Christians and I had heard of it in that context. Again, one of the monks gave us a tour.
The monastery was founded by St. Macarius in the 4th century. It has been in continuous use ever since. In 1969 the monastery had fallen on difficult times and only 6 monks remained. Pope Cyril V asked a group of 12 monks to leave their monastery and go to St Macarius to restore it. They did well. There are now over 100 monks in the monastery.
As we visited the main church of St. Macarius the monk mentioned that they had the relics of St. John the Baptist and the prophet Elisha. They were discovered during the restoration of the church. I was astounded. St. John the Baptist is my patron saint and to be able to visit his relics was a high point of the day. I said a little prayer. It was a moving experience.
In addition to these relics there is a special shrine dedicated to a group of monks who were martyred by the Berbers. There is a well in which the berbers washed their swords after the massacre which is venerated by the people as a holy site.
After all of that we returned briefly to the hotel and then went on a Nile cruise. Of all we did it was really the only disappointment. The boat was crowded and close. There was a belly dancer and a whirling dervish. The music was load and kind of overwhelming. The food was just so-so. Luckily after dinner I could escape to the upper deck which was quiet and pleasant.
We went back to the hotel to catch a little sleep before our early departure for the airport for our flight to Luxor.
Many of us commented that for all there was to see and do the time at the monasteries was a highlight. A real feeling of peace and prayer.
We saw two Coptic monasteries, both very interesting.
The first was the monastery of Anba Bishoy who is buried in the monastery. It was founded in the 4th century. It has five churches within it. We had a monk as a tour guide and he was quite interesting. He talked about the life of the monks and the history of the monastery. We saw several of the churches.
The interior of the Church of St. Bishoy which shows the sanctuary.
The relics of two saints are kept at the monastery. St. Bishoy and St Paul of Tammah. They were buried in another monastery but St. Bishoy had requested that he be buried in the present monastery. This happened in 841 when the Coptic pope decided to move his body. At first they were goin to move St. Bishoy only but the boat they were using on the Nile would not move until the body of St. Paul was brought as well. They are buried together in the velvet casing.
As in many Eastern Churches there is an iconostasis or panel of icons which separate the sanctuary from the rest of the church. Some are quite colorful. This one is done in brown tones and was striking. It contains the 12 apostles as well as Jesus, Mary and other saints.
My patron saint, John the Baptist.
The head of the Coptic church is called a "pope." Several popes came from this monastery. Pope Shenouda III is buried in the monastery. This is inside the tomb church. I thought it gave a good example of contemporary Coptic iconography.
The second monastery we went to was St. Macarius. This is a major pilgrimage spot for Egyptian Christians and I had heard of it in that context. Again, one of the monks gave us a tour.
The monastery was founded by St. Macarius in the 4th century. It has been in continuous use ever since. In 1969 the monastery had fallen on difficult times and only 6 monks remained. Pope Cyril V asked a group of 12 monks to leave their monastery and go to St Macarius to restore it. They did well. There are now over 100 monks in the monastery.
As we visited the main church of St. Macarius the monk mentioned that they had the relics of St. John the Baptist and the prophet Elisha. They were discovered during the restoration of the church. I was astounded. St. John the Baptist is my patron saint and to be able to visit his relics was a high point of the day. I said a little prayer. It was a moving experience.
The reliquary holding the relics of John the Baptist and Elisha the prophet.
In addition to these relics there is a special shrine dedicated to a group of monks who were martyred by the Berbers. There is a well in which the berbers washed their swords after the massacre which is venerated by the people as a holy site.
After all of that we returned briefly to the hotel and then went on a Nile cruise. Of all we did it was really the only disappointment. The boat was crowded and close. There was a belly dancer and a whirling dervish. The music was load and kind of overwhelming. The food was just so-so. Luckily after dinner I could escape to the upper deck which was quiet and pleasant.
We went back to the hotel to catch a little sleep before our early departure for the airport for our flight to Luxor.
Many of us commented that for all there was to see and do the time at the monasteries was a highlight. A real feeling of peace and prayer.
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